Monday, March 28, 2011

Indonesian lines

somewhere in Sumatra, Tip to Tip trip 2010.

Friday, March 25, 2011

When the bay closes out.

shane dorian. waimea bay. december 2009

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Sunday, March 20, 2011

dog walk

Jenna and I have been housesitting over the weekend at our friends house in Cardiff..>They have two awesome dogs.  One is named Kula and the other is Pancho...Pancho's a Mastiv.  He's huge. Weighs about 150 pounds.  We took them out for a walk before the rains came in and I snapped these photos of us walking...I never had a dog growing up so it's fun to take care of our friends pets.

Pancho on the left, Kula on the right

they like there walks

awesome path to the next path

big dog, big meals, comfy grass....

Pancho lighter and more agile now

palm trees are the new birds

On the Board cover_Alex Knost

I just got the new On The Board mag in the mail yesterday and to my surprise was a photo that Alex and I shot together while in Santa Cruz in January for the Duct Tape Invitational on the Cover!  This was taken the first day I was shooting with my new 35mm lens...I owe a big thank you to Mio and the crew at OTB, Alex for catching the wave and doing his thing, as well as Scott, Joel and the crew at Vans for allowing me to come up and shoot for the week!!!

Friday, March 18, 2011

The best job in the world..or is it?

I feel like I have the best job in the world...I am so lucky to be given the oppurtunity to watch some of the best surfers in the world do there thing and be a part of a group that defines our surf world at this time.  Sometimes my job is as easy as hanging on the beach and shooting the guys do there thing..Othertimes it's not that easy.  This photo below was from a session earlier in the year at Mavericks when I shot photos off of my friends Jetski..I don't have the best track record with jetskis, but have yet to lose one either!  This session, Derek Dunfee and I drove out to Mavericks in the dark and while he surfed,  I shot photos...During this session a freak accident occured where I had to jump off the ski and let someone else drive the ski to make a rescue..Luckily I had a wetsuit on and camera in a waterhousing so there was no delay..>I jumped in the water, rescue made, everyones ok.  On Wednesday of this week Sion Milosky wasn't so lucky.  He unfortunately got caught in a situation where there was no ski to help him and a two-wave hold down didn't let him back up.  I couldn't imagine how his family is feeling right now during a time like this.  It forces us all to take a good look around us and be fortunate for the presence that our friends and family have among us as well as how important it is to lookout for one another in the water. Below are a couple photos from my last trip to Mavericks where I got to meet Sion and watch him do what he does best in the water...RIP.

cleanup set

Derek likes to shoot photos

Derek took this photo of me after getting heat stroke for being out there too long..I crawled on the dock, puked my brains out, than Derek put me in front of the wall to shoot this photo. photo: dunfee

Sion charging Mavericks earlier this year...RIP

Sunday, March 13, 2011

the road less travelled

Sometimes the swell looks right, the tides are good, and the wind is perfect..You travel for days, you sleep in the dirt, you get to where you think the waves will be the best, and something just isn't right.  For every score there's countless almosts...Here's a couple scans from an almost trip a couple months ago with Mikala Jones, Greg and Rusty Long...

Greg searching
Mikala, Greg and Rusty 

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

australian jetlag

There was a lot of wind
Parker, connor, and perry make the Young Wise Tails..check out there blog..there's some good stuff on there
view from the water at greenmount.  That's our hotel to the right
the view from the hotel.

Just spent the past 18 days in Australia working on the new Dragon Eyewear campaign and trying to find some waves inbetween heats at the snapper contest.  The goldcoast went kinda crazy this year.  I have never seen so many people at the beach at Snapper. It's 1am and I can't sleep from the jetlag..Here's a couple photos I tried to post from my trip while I was there, but the internet lagged so they never worked.