Friday, July 31, 2009
Dios Mio! The Greg Long story
I'm not going to beat around the bush, I'm not going to sit here and tell you about how I almost missed the biggest south since '96 hit and I almost got stuck at the US Open shooting closed out crap, nor was I going to sit in San Clemente and shoot overhead, overcast walls with the rest of the Southern California surf photo world. This swell was too special, too perfect, too ideal to be anywhere but Mexico. As much as I would love to show the entire batch of images I shot over the past 6 days in Mexico, I can't. The fellas at Surfer Magazine would not like that, and neither would I. So here it is, I leave you with this. One image from Last Friday. They are calling this wave the biggest wave ever paddled into at Puerto Escondido. Think about that, Big waves are ridden all over the world, most in cold water locations, far out to sea with jetskis, boats, or at times sea planes to get to. Greg Long, along with his brother Rusty, Will, Alejandro Moreda, Jamie Sterling, and Dane Ward paddled from the beach on boards ranging from 8'2-10'0s to surf these waves. This is no bullshit. I did everything in my powers to get to where I needed to be for this session and made it in the nick of time. But I digress, these guys are the heros. Look for the full story along with a very serious XXL Paddle in Nominee and a plethora of spreads and hopefully covers worldwide from this wave. So with this I leave you, the start of the wave...Congrats Greg. Well done!