It's been ahwhile since I last updated my blog and a lot has been going on since. For the past few weeks the North Pacific has been generating swell after swell which has been great for Cali. Derek Dunfee and I did a last minute strike upto Mavericks and was lucky enough to link in to what some are calling the best swell ever for paddling in. The conditions were epic, the waves were pumping and the boys were rushing! You can check an online gallery of a few of the images on Surfermag.com
More about that later...
Before that swell, I was jamming around Cardiff shooting with Timmy Curran and Rob Machado as they filmed and shot photos for Josh Landans new film titled "Train." We lucked into a week of pumping surf and epic conditions. The film comes out in the spring of '09 and should be a sick one. Look for a full feature on Surfline.com from there journey down here and in the book they are making alongside the book.
The Present
After the Nor-cal mission I went to SD to turn around and jam upto SB to hang with some friends and go surf the most crowded waves I had ever seen. Fortunately the stormriders were out in full force so changing at the beach wasn't even an option. Wetsuits on, in the car, and ready to rip the minute we get there. no need to lurk in the parking lot trying to find a towel when you put the suit on in the comfort of your own home..haha
This week I have been shooting a couple of features for Surfline San Diego which include a Derek Dunfee Profile, A day in the life of Chris Del Moro, and the latest swell feature.
Well friends, it is that time to put the computer away and stash it into my camera bag as I am off to the airport tomorrow morning to go to the North Shore for the next week.
Thanks for tuning in and Mom if you're reading this, Thanksgiving Dinner was amazing!
